Brown like Fried Chicken

One of the things I’ve truly enjoyed about living in Texas is the expressions that people conjure up. Texans don’t even know they are turning a phrase; they are just trying to be descriptive so you’ll understand what they’re talking about.

One July afternoon, we were visiting Grandparents in San Antonio. The girls had just completed swimming season where they had spent eight hours a day at the pool working out and playing with friends. I don’t care how much suntan lotion you smear on a child, if they spend that much time in the sun they will eventually become tan.  Needless to say “Nana” (grandmother) couldn’t help but notice how tan the girls had become and began to regale us with stories of how her Alsatian Grandmother would never let her go out in the sun unless she was completely covered and how hot it was growing up in South Texas without air conditioning. About that time, we were joined by my brother-in-law fresh off the golf course, where he gets most of his exposure to the sun. He listened long enough to grasp the conversation and walked up to the girls to compare tans. With all their forearms aligned he pronounced, “You girls are just like me, when you spend time in the sun, you get brown like fried chicken”.  We burst into laughter, but you know it is absolutely the best description of the color of the perfect summer tan.  Ever since, in our family you have not achieved a proper summer tan until you have achieved that “brown like fried chicken” look.

Just in case you’ve forgotten what color fried chicken really is, I offer the best fried chicken recipe ever. Everyone I’ve ever prepared this for has been blown away by how the meat is moist and the coating is crisp. However, it’s best if those who will be dining with you don’t actually see the ingredients or the preparation. Some are offended by the use of lard. All I’m going to say is, lard contains no trans-fats. And you may want to take an extra dose of your cholesterol medication just in case.

This recipe provides a clear explanation for why fried chicken was served on Sunday. You must start the preparation at least 16 hours before the cooking begins.  So, pick your favorite long weekend and give this a try you won’t be disappointed.

Serves 4 servings (I recommend doubling the recipe below. Why would you go to this much trouble and not have leftovers)

• 1/2 cup kosher salt (do not use table salt for brining)
• 2 quarts cold water
• 1 three-pound chicken, cut into 8 pieces
• 1 quart buttermilk
• 1 pound lard
• 1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter
• 1/2 cup country ham pieces, or 1 thick slice country ham cut into 1/2-inch strips
• 1 cup all-purpose flour
• 2 tablespoons cornstarch
• 2 tablespoons paprika
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Procedures

To make the brine: Stir kosher salt into cold water until dissolved. Place chicken parts in a nonreactive bowl or pot; add enough brine to cover completely. Refrigerate 8 to 12 hours.

Drain the brined chicken and rinse out the bowl it was brined in. Return chicken to the bowl, and pour the buttermilk over. Cover and refrigerate for 8 to 12 hours. Drain the chicken on a wire rack, discarding the buttermilk.

Meanwhile, prepare the fat for frying by putting the lard, butter and country ham into a heavy skillet or frying pan. Cook over low heat for 30 to 45 minutes, skimming as needed, until the butter ceases to throw off foam and the country ham is browned. Use a slotted spoon to remove the ham carefully from the fat.  (If I have spectators in the kitchen, they can’t resist eating the cubes of fried ham. And I must say they are darn tasty.)

Just before frying, increase the temperature to medium-high and heat the fat to 335 degrees. Prepare the dredge by blending together the flour, cornstarch, paprika, salt and pepper in a shallow bowl or on wax paper. (I prefer to mix my flour in a gallon Ziplock bag. You drop three or four pieces into the bag at a time, close it up and give them a shake.)
Dredge the drained chicken pieces thoroughly in the flour mixture, and then pat well to remove all excess flour. Using tongs, slip some of the chicken pieces, skin side down, into the heated fat. (Do not overcrowd the pan or the cooking fat will cool. Fry in batches, if necessary.) Regulate the fat so it just bubbles, and cook for 8 to 10 minutes on each side, until the chicken is golden brown and cooked through. Drain thoroughly on a wire rack or on crumpled paper towels, and serve.

Fried chicken is delicious eaten hot, warm, at room temperature or cold.